Im insane for making this... I live in Arizona... What was I thinking...
This costume has a number of layers, some of which I am creatively omitting so that I don't die of heat stroke inside 15 min of any given convention... There is the base layer underskirt with fathers sewn to the base, turned upward so you can really see the layers. I used goose shoulder feathers to best match the shape and size of the feathers on her dress. The base fabric is a light cotton so that it breaths but maintains its shape. I had contemplated an even thinner material but it collapsed in too easily and ruined the line of the dress. Tule was another option but its so freaking itchy I would need another layer of something anyway.
Over the feather dress is a tattered dress with two contrasting fabrics with an empire waist. Above the waist is a smoother fabric and below is a loosely woven natural fabric. I couldn't find this rough fabric in anything but off white. Its very like a soft potato sack like material, but heavier, softer, and more tightly woven. I had to dye it to get it black, but that's not too terribly difficult with a natural fiber. I didn't get it as dark as I wanted, but luckily the lighter color mimics the slight shine it has in the game for photos. I am pretty sure this is where the under sleeves are from in the game, but I made the dress sleeveless instead so that at least some part of me could stay cool.
I made a pattern by draping over a mannequin that is roughly my proportions. I then tailored the dress to me before sewing everything together. The inner and outer liner of the top of the empire dress is a light cotton to keep me as cool as possible while maintaining the look of the dress for the few parts where it shows. A mesh was sewn into the collar seam during construction to create the upper mesh bodice piece and lace was hand sewn to it to mimic the detail at the top of the collar of the dress. The two different skirt pieces create the inner and outer "liners" so that both the inside and outside have all finished seams. A zipper at the side seam creates room so that I can get into it since no fabrics are stretch in this particular outfit.
OVER TOP OF THIS there is a COAT. Shoot me. I patterned the coat free hand with muslin and made adjustments as needed before making cuts in the final materials. It needed to be made of a thicker material on the outside to get the look and structure right for the torso. Luckily the sleeves on the outer coat are actually a thin tattered material, so I got away with very light sleeves. Technically there should be those under sleeves from the lower dress, but SHHHH!!! No one will notice if you don't tell them!! I also lined it with an extremely light gauze material. It had enough structure to get me clean seams along the edges, but adds very little weight or heat retention to the overall garment. It also looks nice and worn, which fits the character should it ever be visible.
All in all I think for all the substitutions I made so that I don't die It looks pretty good. I may make some sleeves, bolero style, for under the coat for accuracy should I ever have the chance to wear this somewhere cold.